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Fashion Designer

The Couture Client as Patron of the Art of Fashion

The period between the two world wars is considered to be haute couture’s first golden age. At this time, the leading patrons of the art of fashion were sophisticated and cosmopolitan women who traveled constantly between Paris, New York and resort towns such as Biarritz and Palm Beach, feeling equally at home in all these places. Paris was the host city for fashion culture. As Gertrude Stein (1874-1946) simply puts it, fashion “must always be made to be French.” i

 

From the early decades of the twentieth century, hundreds of thousands of tourists appointed Paris their playground. Traveling in luxurious ships, wealthy tourists arrived for extended stays, thirsty for high culture, avant-garde art and haute couture. “Buying is of as much importance as sightseeing in this enchanting city”, suggested Thérèse and Louise Bonney in their Shopping Guide to Paris. ii Worldly women, who believed in the theatrical facet of clothes, turned to couture as means to display their good taste and influence people.

 

The Honorable Mrs. Reginald Fellowes (1890-1962), known as Daisy, was a half French, half American fashion icon starting in the 1920s. Her sleek and modern style found its ideal match in Chanel’s deceptively simple clothes, which she adorned with enormous jewelry. Daisy Fellowes was known for ordering the same dress in different colors and for her obsession with details such as working pockets.

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Fashion Designer Fashion Issue

Colour Craze!!!

Colours are the phenomena of visual insight. One cannot hear, taste or feel the colour, the only way to recognize the colour is to see it. A colour is a means of nonverbal communication and says a lot more than you can ever imagine.Colour is a fundamental consideration in the design process. Colour can also affect someone’s ability to concentrate or to focus well. Colour can also have an effect on the way someone appears to look in the clothing they wear. It is often the first element that is noticed about a design and influences how the garment or collection is perceived. Colour is often the starting point of the design process. Gender and personality are the most common factors for determining the type of colours a person will wear. Males are typically dressed in dark colours such as blue, black, green, gray, red, and brown. These colours are usually worn in various shades but they still consist of these primary hues. Females typically wear lighter colours such as pink, yellow, cyan, lime green, orange, and peach. Women and girls also wear the darker colours that are normally associated with men but men normally do not wear lighter colours associated with women.

Colour also has an Impact on:

 

  • Your apparent shape
  • Your apparent weight
  • Your apparent personality
  • Your emotions

 

Psychological Properties:

 

The eleven basic colours have fundamental psychological properties that are universal, regardless of which particular shade, tone or tint of it you are using. Each of them has potentially positive or negative psychological effects and which of these effects is created depends on the relationships within colour combinations. Colours can warm up, cool down, make practical or impractical, create impact or camouflage. It has been determined by medical science that colour can influence the viewer’s hormones, blood pressure and body temperature. Every colour is having a positive as well as negative effect; negative effect shows when it is mixed with lighter or darker shade). Colour can have a profound effect on one’s mood as well as their level of energy. The psychological properties of the eleven basic colours are as follows:

RED-Physical
Positive: Physical courage, strength, warmth, energy, basic survival, stimulation, masculinity, excitement.

Negative: Demanding, aggression, strain.

 

BLUE– Intellectual
Positive: Intelligence, communication, trust, efficiency, modern, duty, logic, coolness, reflection, calm.

Negative: Coldness, reserve, lack of emotion, unfriendly.

 

YELLOW– Emotional
Positive: Optimism, confidence, self-esteem, emotional strength, friendliness, creativity.
Negative: Irrationality, fear, depression, Immaturity, anxiety, suicide

 

GREEN– Balance

 

Positive: Harmony, balance, refreshment, universal love, rest, renewal, reassurance, environmental awareness, peace symmetry.

Negative: Boredom, heavy, stagnant, blandness.

 

VIOLET– Spiritual

 

Positive: Spiritual awareness, containment, vision, luxury, authenticity, truth, quality.
Negative: Introversion, decadent, suppression, inferior.

 

PINK
Positive: Physical tranquillity, nurture, warmth, femininity, love, sexuality, survival of the species.
Negative: Inhibition, emasculation, physical weakness.

 

GREY
Positive: Neutral

Negative: Lack of confidence, dampness, depression, lack of energy.

 

BLACK-

Positive: Sophisticated, glamour, secure, emotional safety, efficiency.

Negative: Domination, coldness, menacing, heavy, cruelty

 

WHITE

Positive: Hygiene, sterility, clarity, purity, cleanness, simplicity, sophistication, efficiency.

Negative: Sterile, elitist, coldness, barriers, unfriendliness.

 

BROWN-

Positive: Serious, warmth, Nature, earthiness, reliable, support.

Negative: humourless, heavy, lack of sophistication.

Personal Colouring:

 

The colours play an important role and one should think before adding the colours. Once the desired effect is achieved half the job is done! Contrast colours in clothes looks stunning and catches the attention in its own way and tones of the same colour also adds a lot of smartness and adds a chic feel.In viewing a design, colour often has an overriding visual impact over other design considerations. A garments message can be completely altered by the colour; for example: a severe cut can be softened if it is executed in a candy pink.

 

  • Simply wear the same colour / shades of the same colour (that is, a suit/top and bottom) from head to toe. Create interest by wearing different textures .You could also choose a shirt in a brighter/lighter shade. Now youve created a vertical Line-slimming. This will also emphasise your face.
  • If a person wants to look taller then he or she should wear a light colour from head to toe. Also try to match shoes to hemline colours.
  • A person will also look taller when he/she repeats the same colour tones in top and bottom. For example medium top and medium bottom.
  • A Person can minimize their upper torso when he/she wears a darker top and lighter bottom.
  • A Person can minimize their lower torso when he/she wears a lighter top and darker bottom.
  • A person can appear shorter / heavier when she/he wears a different colour in your skirt/slacks/trousers, hose / socks and shoes.

 

Be Colour Crazy

 

Be colour conscious right down to your toes. Sometimes you only need to change the colour to make it work! It will pay dividends. Our fashion colour choices say a lot about the image we are trying to portray and how we feel about ourselves. Care must be taken with the basic colour of the garments if unusual colour accessories are to be worn to advantage. Check the colour of the fabric against your face. Hair, eyes, and skin colouring must be taken into account, plus the occasion for day or evening wear. Generally, the smaller and the thinner person, the lighter the colour she should wear, with the reverse for taller, heavier types. The right colours can make your skin tone appear more even, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and dark circles and make you look brighter and healthier. While on the other hand wearing a colour which isn’t so good for you can make you look tired, dull and even ill. Create your own colour story without restricting yourself to just two or three basic colours. Choose colours which flatter and enhance you, not colours you have to work hard to wear to look alive. Only through experience will you become selective about colours and tones which compliment or do nothing for you.

 

The author is Faculty in Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida

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Fashion Designer

Costume Design in the Indian Hindi Films – A Changing Scenario

The film industry in India is one of the biggest and oldest in the world in terms of production and audiences. ‘Bollywood’, the industry based in Mumbai tops all the regional industries in its national profile and global appeal. This paper reviews the developments in one of the under looked areas in the Indian film making – costume design in the Indian Hindi films. It also focuses on the issues related to the changing interpretations and modalities of the costume design which may be seen as an influence of increasing foray of designers in this buzzing arena.

 

Costumes & Characters

 

The term costume can refer to wardrobe and dress in general, or to the distinctive style of dress of a particular people, class, or period. When we talk about costumes, it has three P’s attached to it.

  • People
  • Place
  • Period

One of the more prominent places people see costumes is in theatre, film and on television. In combination with other aspects, theatrical costumes help actors portray characters’ age, gender role, profession, social class, personality, and even information about the historical period/era, geographic location and time of day, as well as the season or weather of the theatrical performance.

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Fashion Designer

Portfolio Development

(Views expressed in this article are the personal opinion of the author.)

 

As young pass outs just from the fashion school, one of the most important things a fashion designer should do is his/ her portfolio development. A portfolio displays the work done by the designer. Having a great portfolio is very important for jump starting a career and getting jobs. In todays competitive world one has to make a mark for himself/herself. Fashion designers are mushrooming all over and a good Portfolio is one tool to get noticed. A portfolio is an important visual self-promotion and sales tool for any designer, fashion student or creative individual.

 

Nearly all fashion students will be familiar with the term fashion portfolio. The designer can customize the portfolio as per her/ his needs, portfolios are found in varied sizes and formats. What is important is they should be portable and easy to handle, all the works of the designer should be highlighted.

 

Some important steps to remember while developing a fashion portfolio:

 

  1. COVER PAGE: Designing of the cover page of a portfolio is one of the most crucial jobs while working on portfolio development. The cover page can be simple or rather should reflect ones personality. It can be arty and finally should be able to capture the curiosity of customers to look deeper into the portfolio file.
  2. MOOD BOARDS: Creating mood boards on the themes worked by the student designer can add weightage to ones portfolio. Mood boards should be able to tell your design story. Designers can use variety of images to accomplish this. Research photos, historic as well as current can be used to show the designers creative process.
  3. FABRIC SWATCHES: One of the main tools of a fashion designer apart from illustrations is fabric. The designer should emphasize on the range of fabrics he/ she has worked with and the design possibilities with them. Creating beautiful fabric collages and the color palettes is an important aspect of a good portfolio.
  4. SKETCHES: Illustrations are the world and the main arena of a fashion designer, creative designers should emphasize on this art on their portfolio, the sketches can be flat or design figures. Both types have their own advantages. It is here a designer can showcase his talent of Hi- fashion illustrations.
  5. RESUME: An up to date bio date is a quick path to gain attention. A portfolio is an ultimate sale and effective interviewing tool Fashion designers must balance creativity with business savvy when writing a resume. Highlight on your achievements, seminars attended. Experience and training underwent is an added advantage while drafting a resume. References of a faculty and a known personality from the fashion line are always better.
  6. PORTABILITY: The Designers should keep in mind that the portfolio should always be light and portable. A portfolio is all the works of the designer which should be culminated in such a way that it can be carried around with ease, not causing any inconvenience to the designer as well the customers, or the employer.
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Fashion Designer

The Lure of Luxury

Global luxury market foresees strong growth and is predicted to grow and reach USD2.4 trillion by the end of 2012, and USD 3.22 trillion by 2017. The industry has several thousand companies targeting numerous customer segments. Manufacturers face fierce competition, and hence need to invest heavily in differentiating their merchandise, and marketing efforts. Luxury market is always dynamic, and getting more luxurious. Overall all customers; generally are willing to pay a premium price for brands.

Popularity of denim is based on the customer’s desire to show off. Jeans would give them a feeling of style icon, and as a part of the fashion host. It is the general nature of a consumer to wish for an ego boost. As fashion trends keep changing at the drop of a hat, manufacturers and retailers are under constant pressure. Manufacturers need to come up with innovative styles, and concepts to capture the shoppers’ attention, and retailers need to keep abreast of the current fashion trends, and customer preferences, and fill their store rack accordingly.

Fashion trends tend to spread rapidly, even crossing the country’s boundaries; at times. The desire of customer’s to look and feel good is reflected in their clothing choice. This is cashed in by the customer centric retailers, targeting customers who are ready to shell out a fortune in buying branded clothing.

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Fashion Designer

Online Fashion Degrees Propelling Designers Into Multi-Faceted Careers

Interior design has often been the central joke of sitcoms. At the same time it’s also one of the fastest growing professions in the U.S. If you don’t believe, just check the annual Occupation Handbook published by the Bureau of Labor Statistics. They project interior design and decorating jobs will grow by 19% over the next decade. The national average for any occupation is generally 10% to 11%.

 

As it happens, the field is a lot more than one’s Aunt Martha coming in with a swath of carpet samples and swatches of the latest wall paints. Interior design is actually about getting the maximum use out of a living, public or work space. Like the ancient art of feng shui, it’s also about creating an environment that causes a particular desired effect, whether it’s to get the most work out of employees or to make one feel at home when the work day is over and done.

To be more specific, an interior designer sits down with a client and comes up with a plan for their space while keeping an eye on such things as budget, safety and schedule. From there, they often have to hire others to help them with anything from plumbing and electrical work to painting the walls.

The occupation isn’t, like the TV portrays, restricted to an apartment’s living room. Many designers actually specialize in doing such buildings as hospitals and office buildings. They can also specialize on the ergonomic value of an office. There’s even a new offshoot that concentrates on energy efficiency and other green matters.

Post-secondary school education in interior design is no joke either. Most recruiters will accept a candidate with a two year degree or vocational certificate and a good portfolio and experience. Others prefer a full bachelor’s degree. Areas of study should include drawing, CAD, basic architecture, furniture, color and spatial planning. After graduating, there is usually also an apprenticeship or internship program. From there, many interior designers go on to freelance and build their own fortunes.

In fact, approximately half the interior designers out there are independent. This means salaries are also highly variable. According to the Bureau, the bell curve that covers half the profession ranges from $34,000 to $62,000. It can go as low as $27,000, although it is also true the designer with an exclusive list and an incredible reputation is quite capable of earning over the $100,000 range.

At the same time, as this is a freelance occupation, when it comes to such things as health insurance and retirement programs, the designer is on his or her own. There are times when the designer will be part of a firm or company that will provide benefits, however, this is not usually the norm.

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Fashion Designer

Indian brands seek joint venture with foreign labels

Indian brands with foreign labels like ‘Munich Polo’ make name for themselves:

 

Pick the odd one out: Zara, Tommy Hilfiger, Munich Polo, Skechers and Pavers. Answer: Munich Polo. Reason: It’s the only Indian brand amongst the lot of global labels.

 

As the rush of single brands into the country-including those that have applied for approvals-peaks, a number of home-grown, international sounding brands are melding themselves into the retailing landscape.

 

“The trend will gather momentum,” says Piyush Kumar Sinha, professor in retailing and marketing at IIM, Ahmedabad. Indian brands will try to look and sound foreign to make the most of rising aspirations of foreign-label fascinated Indians, he adds.
Munich Polo, which has positioned itself as a German brand and recently rolled out its premium kidswear stores in New Delhi, is the latest addition to the serpentine list of home-grown brands flaunting foreign tags. These include Da Milano, Franco Leone, La Opala and Monte Carlo.

 

Munich Polo uses the German language and depicts Munich’s rich cultural history on its website. It draws inspiration from Munich’s heritage for its apparel designs, and uses fair-skinned child models to give the brand a German look and feel. When contacted, a Munich Polo spokesperson did not comment on why the brand has appropriated a German name and positioning.

 

Another local brand Da Milano, a high-end leather accessory label, is widely perceived to be of Italian origin. Company officials refused to comment on the brand’s local origin.

 

Franco Leone, a Delhi-based premium footwear brand, has an explanation for its Italian-sounding name. “My father bought the brand from two Italian designers called Franco and Leone,” says Vikram Bhamri, director of Franco Leone.

But why did the brand continue to use a foreign name in India? Simple, it makes immense business sense. “It has to do with the Indian mindset. We love and easily accept European and American fashion because it is aspirational,” adds Bhamri, who roped in Bollywood star Ranbir Kapoor as brand ambassador last year.
Bhamri himself is one such consumer who would prefer a foreign brand over an Indian one. “Despite the high quality of Liberty (Shoes), I would still prefer Lee Cooper because of its foreign tag,” he shrugs.
For Monte Carlo, a 26-year-old woollen wear brand from the Ludhiana-based Nahar Group, having a foreign name does have some advantages, but it has to be reinforced by quality of the product.
“The name is built by customers, not by brands,” says Sandeep Jain, executive director of Monte Carlo Fashions, which was hived off from Oswal Woollen Mills of the Nahar Group last year. 100% foreign direct investment for single brands will only help raise awareness of their local counterparts, he argues.

Veteran adman Piyush Pandey thinks a foreign brand can be a double-edged sword. If it doesn’t deliver its promise, it is doomed to bomb. “Consumers are not stupid, says the executive chairman & creative director of Ogilvy South Asia. “You can fool them once, but not twice. If you claim to be an Italian brand, then you have to deliver Italian quality. If you don’t, people won’t buy it.”
Pandey turns the trend of foreign-sounding desi brands on its head by pointing to international brands with Indian names. Like French jewellery house Boucheron that has a perfume exotically branded Jaipur. “Now, calling it Jaipur doesn’t make it an Indian brand, does it,” asks Pandey.

 

This article was originally published in the Economic Times dated 27th July, 2012, written by Rajiv Singh, associated with the Economic Times Bureau, New Delhi.

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Fashion Designer

Enduring Fashion Inspiration – Part IV ‘Arabia’

Who would not be inspired by princess Jasmine of the Arabian Nights? Sensual and bewitching, her clothing style gets the perfect amount of eye candy. All the ancient history and culture provides a true inspiration for modern designers till today. The inspirational beauty of Arabian fashion styles are adopted all across the world even today, bringing out the princess in every woman. Clothing inspirations taken from ancient Arabian styles are rooted in the elegance of modesty with an insight into their national life and aesthetic values as well.

Traditional Islamic clothing reflects their cultural values calling for modesty and humility, though styles and shades vary throughout. Religious customs of Arabia dictates conservative costume for both men and women. Islam has set standards of modesty that reflects in their clothing styles. They are interpreted by modern fashion designers to create their dream collection. The Arabian vintage look of 20s and 30s speak of feminine elegance, and glamour without figure hugging silhouettes. Long robes wrapped around the waist, share their similarities with the iconic flapper dress of the 20s. Current trends of tunics and tops with waist belts for the perfect hourglass figure were sported by ancient Arabians. Loose dropped waist makes a perfect style for hijab’s.

Brands such as Burberry and Marc Jacobs have a much more casual approach to the trend by teaming with masculine trenches with a hit of sleek femininity beneath making more relevant and edgy patterns.

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Fashion Designer

Fashion – an art of self expression

What is Fashion? Embracing style, trend, and comfort is nothing but the fashion. Fashion in today’s world is compared to air in our planet. It’s the most recent developments of our modern society. Fashion is an excepted manner of dressing, living, entertaining or traveling adopted by a group of people at a particular time. Fashion has been changing so fast that it is difficult even to recognize what the current fashion style is? There is undisputedly a wide choice of colors & designs in costumes.

 

Fashion is a style that is accepted and used by the majority of group at any one time, no matter how small that group is. Fashion is a vital, challenging, ever-changing force.

 

In recent years significant “anti fashion” phenomenon has taken over the fashion industry e.g. wearing unconventional colors and fabric combination. Clothing style different social groups and communities differ from one another. Sequined dresses, chic ensembles and trendy shirts and skirts represented the true repertoire of the fashion. Fabrics like shiny fabrics, sating, polyester, blends and knits are the dominant features of fashion. It has been proven scientifically that colors play an important role in the psychological behavior of human being. Keeping these in mind designers are preferring naturally dyed fabrics and natural color.

 

This article was originally published in the Textile Review magazine, March, 2013 issue, published by Saket Projects Limited, Ahmedabad.

 

About the Authors:

 

Tanveer Malik and Shivendra Parmar are associated with the Department of Textile Technology, SVITS, Indore.

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Fashion Designer

Global street wear fashion : Simple and complicated

Casual attires make people feel comfortable and look trendy at the same time. Street wear especially adds to the charm. Street wear fashion comprises of the weirdest of dress combinations. Girls can match miniskirts with jeans and jackets. Boys can wear sleeveless t-shirts, scarves, low rise jeans, and accessories to go along. Teenagers prefer to wear this kind of outfit as it gives them a different impression. It is also preferred by rap artists, guitarists, rock stars, and other artists.

The roots of this fashion clothing lie in USA. Japanese designers picked up this fashion from USA and developed it further. It got instant success in Japan and became mainstream fashion over there. The entire world imitated Japanese street wear designs. Japanese keep on innovating street wear. Some of the famous styles for street wear from their end include the Onee Kei style, Lolita style, Decora style, Gyaru style, etc. Tokyo Fashion Week is renowned for its street wear outfits. Designers from all over the world attend this fashion week.