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Fashion Issue

Lingerie Guide – Camisoles

Among the under garment world there exists a small top with spaghetti string straps. These garments are called camisoles and are wonderful outfits for sleeping or for a romantic sexy night with someone special. They are generally made of several different materials including cotton, satin, silk or nylon. Some of the fabric has solid sections with sheer or netting in discrete places. This makes for a nice view!

 

These camisoles are usually a set with a t-shirt style top that comes down to the waist and a matching panty. Some shirts are short-sleeved while others have the straps. There are full and crotchless panties with full or open bust shirts. No matter your personal preference, all camisoles are full of comfort and completely sexy. Nowadays camisoles are not only worn as under garments but are frequently found under a favorite shirt or jacket to give a classy, sexy look to any ensemble. They are almost always form fitting so as to accent curves in a subtle, sensuous manner. Like many other words in our vocabulary, the name has been shortened from camisole to “cami” as of late. (Interestingly, camisole in clinical terms means straightjacket. Have fun with that one, but don’t go nuts!) Some camis even have an underwire for support, while others are made of Spandex for support and control.

 

Camisoles are versatile. That lovely white blouse you love to wear to the club – the one that is a bit too see-through – can have a cami worn underneath it to look stylish and sexy with just a bit of conservatism so as to not be too revealing. How about that navy denim jacket you have been dying to wear if only you could find the right blouse? Well, a cami is the answer for this fashion frustration with a sporty, sexy look. Also, throw a cami over your bathing suit while on the way to the beach or pool, or even wear it by itself to sunbathe. The uses are endless so use your imagination!

 

Camisoles are a “must have” in your wardrobe ‘ and lots of them! You can get them inexpensively in a variety of styles, colors, and even prints. Have a whole collection of them so that when the mood strikes, you have the right cami to fit your needs. They can be worn casually, professionally or for sexy fun on a dreamy evening out or in. They look great in private settings and in the public eye, and are simply a fantastic piece of clothing everyone should have on hand. Buy them, wear them, accessorize with them, build an outfit around them, or simply wear them with nothing else. They are sexy and comfortable any way you look at it!

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Fashion Issue

Inspiration, Creativity & Their Application in Fashion Design

The work is dealing with problem of fashion design in present. Defines terms of creativity and inspiration and deals with them in field of application in fashion design. Analyzing the topic of fashion design, gives examples and suggests techniques for successful creative thinking to produce new and tangible things. The work also indicates to the application of techniques from other fields and their modification for needs of fashion design. Application of techniques has for goal to facilitate the process of creation and designing, it also promotes a new way of thinking and a successful problem solving which fashion designers faces through the process of designing.

 

Creativity

 

In order to understand the essence of multidisciplinary and complexity of creative thought processes there is a need to define each term separately. Creativity is considered as a set of thought processes which lead to new solutions, ideas, theories. [1] One of key elements of creativity is element of novelty, something new. It can be an “old idea” but if it is applied in a totally new way, new package, that same but recycled idea, it becomes a whole new entity. Creativity should not be initiated in itself, it is present or not. When it is not present it is necessary to resort to the inspiration that will form and cause our creativity.

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Fashion Issue

Lakme Fashion Week Attracts Larger Number of Buyers

On the business from Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) has reported significant growth in the number of buyer registrations as compared to the last season. This year, the premiere fashion event received 185 buyer registrations, of which 143 were domestic and 42 international buyers, from across the globe. This augurs well and speaks of the strength that Lakme Fashion Week was gaining in showcasing Indian design talent to the world.
This Year LFW was held between March 10 – 15 at the Grand Hyatt, Mumbai to showcase the best of Indian and international fashion talent to an audience comprising buyers, media and fashionistas in the global fashion industry, entering into the 11th year of its existence, LFW is continuing its pursuit to commercialise Indian fashion through certain new initiatives taken this year.
“This is where the stars are born”. Lakme Lever CEO Anil Chopra can be forgiven for sounding so chuffed. Of the 58 designers who participated in the Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2011, 15 have come through the GenNext designer platform. From a prolonged 15-year internship earlier, to instant recognition in six months now, young designers have never had it so good.
The Lakme Fashion Week has managed to integrate Mumbai and India into the global fashion network. According to Ravi Krishnan, Managing Director – IMG South Asia and Senior Vice President – IMG “The purpose of LFW is to give impetus to the business of fashion in India by addressing the fashion requirements of the fraternity and to keep it at par with international standards. Fashion is rapidly moving towards a digital revolution, and to cater to the change in market, we will be launching LFW TV this season, which will provide a unique brand engagement for customers, by granting them access to LFW, whilst deriving additional value for the stakeholders of the event”.

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Fashion Issue

Chiropractic Fashion Advice

In today’s society, much value is put on the way people look and how they dress. This is not surprising because a person’s status is usually equated with their fashion. The belief that the more fashionable a person is, the more he or she earns because designer items are generally very expensive. The Hollywood and MTV fashion mania affirm this notion with celebrities showing off and posing for the cameras wearing designer clothes and shoes. Unfortunately, fashion stylists and designers, in their quest for individualism and unique styles, often create looks that are attractive but neither comfortable nor practical. Women, more than men, are the usual victims of fashion trends. Statistics show that more women are willing to sacrifice comfort for the sake of looking fashionable. This is the problem according to Dr. Jerome McAndrews, the ACA’s spokesperson, because tight clothes and high heels disrupt the body’s balance and cause muscle strains. Practitioners of chiropractic medicine also agree since most of the complaints of their female patients are not caused by sports but by excessive wearing of uncomfortable clothes and shoes.

 

A chiropractic fashion no-no that both men and women are guilty of is the use of big bags. Bags that are too heavy disrupt the natural movement of the body especially when slung over one shoulder for long periods of time. Even the simple and seemingly harmless act of putting wallets in the pants’ back pockets is also bad. Chiropractic medicine principle states that these can cause undue strain and pressure on the lower back muscles. Chiropractors agree that as important looking fashionable is, the body’s health is too big a sacrifice.

 

Doctors of chiropractic medicine do not want to cramp people’s styles, so the ACA offers guidelines to looking fashionable AND comfortable. For women who must wear high heels, they advise bringing and changing into flats in the privacy of their offices or for times that their feet feel tired. Using flats for walking and changing into heels upon reaching the office is also an option. Wearing supportive shoes and more stable heels like stacked heels is also advised since the body won’t need to exert as much effort to balance unlike when wearing designer spikes. Too tight clothes are not good because they restrict the natural movement of the body. Instead the ACA advises to wear clothes with some stretch; these will be form-fitting but not restrictive. It is also important to take unnecessary items out of bags to reduce weight. Bringing laptops is not necessary if the office is equipped with computers. However, if big bags are really necessary, it is advised to sling it over the head and across the body so the weight is distributed evenly. If this is not possible, switching shoulders often is the next best option. Taking out wallets and cardholders out of back pockets is advised before sitting for a long time such as in traveling or driving.

 

Being attuned to the body’s responses is very important according to the ACA. It is also one of the most basic principles of chiropractic medicine. One vital aspect of being fashionable and comfortable is maintaining healthy judgement.

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Fashion Issue

Basics of Pattern Making

The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the most important factor leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit must be designed into the original pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate locations to accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good customized fit is dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the individual customer. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing.

 

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin).

 

A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. With in this roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.

 

A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).

 

Methods of Pattern Making

 

Pattern making involves three methods-

  • Drafting
  • Draping
  • Flat paper patternmaking

 

Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.

 

Draping: It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.

 

Flat Pattern Making: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern pieces are used for womens clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently womens styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.

A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For a good pattern making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.

 

The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate (Aldrich).

 

Pattern making in todays world

 

Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of the computers. Now-a-days different softwares are available in the market to meet the needs of the manufacturers. The different softwares used are Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech , OptiTex etc. These softwares has made the job of the Pattern master easier. They have made the process of pattern making more economical and less time consuming.

 

Pattern-making softwares enables you to input your measurements and draft out a pattern. These softwares draft patterns to fit your measurements specifically, eliminating much fitting trial and error in the sewing room.

 

A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using these softwares. An individual’s measurements are collected from 3D body scanner. The measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual’s body. The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern in .dxf format.

 

References

 

  • Aldrich, Winifred. 1997, Metric Pattern Cutting. Blackwell Science Ltd U.K.
  • Armstrong H.J, 2000, Pattern Making for Fashion Design, Harper & row publishers, New York
  • Cooklin, G.1994, Pattern Cutting for Womens Outerwear
  • Hudson, P.B, 1980, The role of fit and Fashion on Apparel Quality, Bobbin.
  • Shoben, M.M and J.P. Ward, 1999, Pattern cutting and Making up, CBS Publishers, New Delhi

 

The author is a Lecturer at FMG School of Studies at Greater Noida

Categories
Fashion Issue Fashion Trends

The Emulation of Indian Fashion and the West

With the expansion of western colonialism and development of foreign trades, Indian fashion has been continually improving to perfection. However, the forte of Indian fashion industry lies in its free-wheeling nature that incorporates anything exotic into integral Indian so much that it is not that easy to sport its origin. Nowadays, the Indian fashion industry is accelerated by mainly two aspects including customer choices and globalization of Indian economy.

There are many reasons accounting western impact on the Indian apparel and costume industry. As a melting pot of multi ethnic groups, the open-minded culture coupled with cultural diversities of India embrace the whole world in tolerance posture. Each group has its own prominent style and type of dresses and costumes. Indian Fashion designers are known to interweave these diverse fashions and lend an amazing Indian touch to them.

 

In recent years, the awards of Indian beauty pageants on international platforms have been doing the nation proud. Their natural style of dressing has deeply affected the ladies fashion apparel industry in India. The dresses donned by these participants are a blend of Indian and western wear. Commoners openly ape their role models and this eventually becomes the latest fad in the general fashion wear industry in India.
Apart from the two aspects as mentioned above, Indian movies are also big influencing factor to leave a never vanishing impact on the minds of the Indians. As a matter of fact, it affects daily lives. People blindly emulate what their role models are wearing. And with movies following the western patterns of dressing it is natural for the ordinary folks to imitate them lock, barrel and stock.

 

The extensive scale of globalization and liberalization also pose great impact on the Indian fashion industry. Indian imports from the west have also made it easier for Indians to keep a track on the latest fashion clothes and accessories ruling the Western men and women’s wear market. Apparently, Indian fashion industry is also appealing to western buyers. Needless to say, the fashion fraternity in India have willingly adopted western designs keeping in mind both the Indian and western sensibilities.

 

In addition, the Indian denizens embrace western fashion industry to such an extent that they like to adapt the social and cultural changes and western lifestyles as well.

The Emulation of Indian Fashion and the West

 

With the expansion of western colonialism and development of foreign trades, Indian fashion has been continually improving to perfection. However, the forte of Indian fashion industry lies in its free-wheeling nature that incorporates anything exotic into integral Indian so much that it is not that easy to sport its origin. Nowadays, the Indian fashion industry is accelerated by mainly two aspects including customer choices and globalization of Indian economy.

 

There are many reasons accounting western impact on the Indian apparel and costume industry. As a melting pot of multi ethnic groups, the open-minded culture coupled with cultural diversities of India embrace the whole world in tolerance posture. Each group has its own prominent style and type of dresses and costumes. Indian Fashion designers are known to interweave these diverse fashions and lend an amazing Indian touch to them.

 

In recent years, the awards of Indian beauty pageants on international platforms have been doing the nation proud. Their natural style of dressing has deeply affected the ladies fashion apparel industry in India. The dresses donned by these participants are a blend of Indian and western wear. Commoners openly ape their role models and this eventually becomes the latest fad in the general fashion wear industry in India.

 

Apart from the two aspects as mentioned above, Indian movies are also big influencing factor to leave a never vanishing impact on the minds of the Indians. As a matter of fact, it affects daily lives. People blindly emulate what their role models are wearing. And with movies following the western patterns of dressing it is natural for the ordinary folks to imitate them lock, barrel and stock.

 

The extensive scale of globalization and liberalization also pose great impact on the Indian fashion industry. Indian imports from the west have also made it easier for Indians to keep a track on the latest fashion clothes and accessories ruling the Western men and women’s wear market. Apparently, Indian fashion industry is also appealing to western buyers. Needless to say, the fashion fraternity in India have willingly adopted western designs keeping in mind both the Indian and western sensibilities.

 

In addition, the Indian denizens embrace western fashion industry to such an extent that they like to adapt the social and cultural changes and western lifestyles as well.

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Fashion Issue

Chinese Fall for ‘Fast Fashion’

International retailing giants offering clothes and accessories are flocking to the Chinese mainland to tap the huge potential of so-called “fast fashion”. The phrase is taken to mean clothing collections which are designed and manufactured quickly, are affordable and are aimed at mainstream consumers; it’s otherwise known as “throw away” fashion. Gap, one of the biggest garment retailers in the US, announced at the end of June of its decision to venture into the Mainland market by opening flagship stores in Beijing and Shanghai before the end of 2010. It also disclosed plans to provide Chinese consumers with online shopping services.

While overseas garment retailers are gearing up to China’s “fast fashion” market, local manufacturers are also poised to join the race.
Vancl, established by the founder of online retailer Joyo.com, launched two rounds of light box advertising offensives on the metro and public transport systems in Beijing and Shanghai during May and June respectively.
The outdoor advertising debut of famous Mainland writer Han Han and teenage idol Wang Luodan, as Vancl’s ambassadors, drew plenty of media and cyber attention.

 

Marketing success
The crucial factors contributing to the success of “fast fashion” are novelty, trendiness, uniqueness and low price. The approach mainly targets young people. As Mainland consumers have only just learned about “fast fashion”, first movers like Zara, H&M, Uniqlo and C&A were able to capture a sizeable share of the market early on.
“Fast fashion” brands rely on several factors to establish their foothold on the Mainland. For a start, they have a short product life cycle, from product development to marketing. They closely follow fashion trends (rather than setting new trends), produce designs of the season (not ahead of time), and pay attention to the span of consumption.
The second factor is “speed”. Speed is the core value of “fast fashion”. The entire process from planning, design, display, placing orders, production and delivery normally takes between 120 and 160 days. H&M and Zara can have their products on the shelves within two weeks of holding their quarterly shows.
An affordable price is what attracts young people to “fast fashion”. The prices of H&M clothing range from Rmb99 to Rmb299. Zara’s prices are slightly higher. At Uniqlo, T-shirts sell at only Rmb59 and jeans at Rmb99. There are also bargain items selling at about Rmb39 each. Where it comes to fashion design, H&M usually co-opts famous designers to boost its brand image. Zara’s positioning is slightly higher. It basically toes the line as a low-end, big brand by imitating the designs of top luxury brands. Uniqlo produces mainly essential items, with a focus on practicality. These brands are selling products at low prices but with top rated store images. Their high-end shopping environments and designs help consumers shake off the “cheap goods are inferior” catechism. These brands attract not only students but also a growing middle class following. For example, Uniqlo is a national clothing brand in Japan but its “low price strategy” doesn’t work on the Chinese mainland. It had to close two of its nine stores in 2005.

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Fashion Issue

Costumes of Meitei -A Reflection of Rich Cultural Heritage of Manipur

Introduction

 

The human race universally wears articles of clothing-also known as dress, garments, or attire-on the body in order to protect it against the adverse climate conditions. People wear clothing for functional as well as social reasons. Apart from the practical functions of placing a piece of garment above the skin, wearing clothes also carries specific cultural and social meanings. Religion, customs and of course, particular historically important circumstances have shaped the way different people in various times feel about clothing and exposure. Moreover, clothing has been regarded as one of the best ways to distinguish social classes, sexes, occupation, marital status and ethnic or religious affiliation.

 

Encircled by nine hill ranges, Manipur is marked out by a picturesque valley in the midst. The total area of Manipur is 22,327 sq. Km. The hills around the cup-shaped valley add the natural beauty of Manipur. The first Prime Minister of India, the Late Pundit Jawaharlal Nehru, described Manipur as a “Jewel of India”, bewitching beholders with its natural beauty and its cultural paraphernalia. It is bounded by Nagaland in the north, Mizoram in the south, upper Myanmar in the east and Cachar district of Assam in the west.

 

Among the Manipuris, the Meiteis form the predominant ethnic group and traditionally inhibit the valley. The surrounding hill ranges are settled by many tribes. Meiteis are deeply sensitive and their unique pattern of life with inherent love art is reflected in their festival, dance and music. Their rich culture and tradition are also reflected in their costume, handloom textiles and in finer workmanship of handicrafts.

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Fashion Issue

Looking fashionable can also be affordable

You don’t have to be rich to look good or fashionable. Globalization has impacted street fashion as well and there are more ways than one to get on the fashion bandwagon.

 

Everybody knows that peplum is here to stay. Blair Waldorf wouldn’t have been caught dead in something that didn’t set a trend immediately. But little did the main character of Gossip Girl know that her wardrobe would influence Sonam Kapoor’s wardrobe in Aisha in 2010. In New Delhi, the red peplum dress Kapoor wore in the film caught Tinky Ningombam’s fancy – the 27-year-old public relations manager marched to her local tailor and had the outfit stitched. Frugal finances don’t always need to come in the way of fashion.

 

Apart from the price of the dress at a high-street brand, it is important to get the right fit,” says Ningombam who prefers to shop on the street, instead of hitting the malls. A walk through Delhi’s Janpath or Sarojini Nagar market or Colaba Causeway in Mumbai is all one needs in order to get a pulse on an eclectic, fresh, not-so-original but seamlessly international phenomenon called street fashion.

 

Apart from popular cinema, magazines and blogs are emerging as an important medium that seek to guide fashion lovers of all backgrounds and budgets. “People are sharing ideas on social networking portals and blogs,” says Aaditya Walia, senior fashion stylist, Vogue India. But the numbers are small. Less than 30% people in India follow latest trends, points out Mumbai-based fashion blogger Gia Kashyap. She feels that Indians are far behind the global benchmark of international street fashion compared to the Americans, European and Japanese counterparts. “In India, fashion is very subjective. You may find a girl wearing only western clothing in Mumbai, another girl in Jaipur may wear block print cotton kurtas. Both stylish, but different,” says Kashyap.

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Fashion Issue

Fashion Product Development: Concept & Reality

Fashion, an explicit term, is something beyond the common man’s approach and where there is no limit to the permutations one can think of in terms of designing. As the human approach towards change is so frequent and the designer, in a process, to fulfill the demand of new style goes through a number of phases.

 

The product of Fashion, either it’s a garment or an accessory, goes through the same to take the actual shape that is known as “Design Process.” Taking an example of a garment as a fashion product, the process includes: Inspiration, on the basis of which, Mood & Swatch board, Color Palette, Story & Client boards are created. Specifications & Illustrations (the complete collection) are originated i.e. in overall, an innovative process.

 

Finding Inspiration shows the designer’s ability to work on the product which gives an overall idea of the collection to be executed. The exploration of the sources makes the design unique and the reinvention/ research of the inspiration influences the garment ideas that emerge after the close observation. An inspiration can be found everywhere, whether it is a seashell on a beach or a splendid skyscraper. The reflective glass of a skyscraper might suggest the use of a shimmering modern fabric; the peeling paint of an old beach hut could stimulate to create a look incorporated into a rippled layers. The designer, however, the furthest extremes can explore.

The first stage of organizing the thoughts and collecting images (Mood board) enable to channelize the creative excitement towards a cohesive collection. It captures the mood or flavor of the design project, as well as reflects the target customer. The in depth study & close examination of the inspiration stimulates the ideas about colors & textures which influence choice of fabrics. Color palette is selected with the important shades and identifying the harmonious combinations from the inspiration whereas black & white inspiration board focuses more on shapes & textures. Methods such as dying, printing, appliqu & manipulating the fabrics convert the stimulated ideas into required textures & fall of the garments. At the stage of developing fabrics for Swatch Board, practicalities of achieving the effects hardly matters whereas innovation is highly demanded. Designing a collection is concerned with decisions of taste, choice and sensitivity and relies on the value judgments.

The actual product (the garment), when takes shape on the fabric includes Pattern development & the process of Garment Production (Layout, Cutting, Stitching, Finishing etc.).As a final product, it gulps the concept in it but the question arises when it comes to reality. As, a layman doesn’t digest the idea of originating such products which don’t meet the requirement/necessity or is not utilized but the criteria is not to fulfill the basic need of the consumer but of the designers, for whom to innovate & create, is an urge that is growth promise & moreover leave a mark on audience’ mind. The idea behind writing this article is to spread awareness about what fashion is. The existence of Fashion is not only to cater the consumer’s needs but to represent the designer’s innovation which brings revolution in the fashion world. As the human tendency which always demands a change, a plenty of experiments worked upon by the designer, creates a difference & design innovative products which usually are considered as non-wearable.