High-street labels like Armani, Gucci & Zegna roll out made-to-measure outfits to suit unshapely Indians
It was only a matter of time before they hit the middle ground. But the Italians were uncompromising to begin with – in such things Rome draws the line, they said – and fervently hoped Indians would lose the stomach for anything bigger. We held on, now the Italians are back, with a tape and a tailor in tow.
In a nutshell, ladies and gentlemen, that’s how the Armanis, Guccis and the Zegnas of Italian high-street fashion lost their war with the stubborn Indian potbelly as they set out to clothe one of the biggest emerging markets for Rs 1 lakh-plus suits and trousers. As the realisation sunk in that India’s wealthiest men – from Altamount Road’s pedigreed industrialists to Gurgaon’s nouveau riche builders – are so unshapely for their dapper ready-made suits, the Romans have decided to stretch that famous Italian stitch a bit more.
Enter MTM (made-to-measure) offerings – clothing that is sewn to fit each customer individually. A typical Armani or Zegna suit will come for Rs 1 lakh, if you are unwilling to go easy on the desi ghee stuff, no problem, but be willing to shell out Rs 30,000 more for an MTM one of your favourite brand.
Armani, Gucci, Zegna, Corneliani, Canali, you name it, the MTM offering comes alongside these days, even for the very British Burberry’s.
Big demand for 48-52 waist sizes
Canali, which is a popular brand among the youth, had a team of stylists fly down from Italy for an MTM event recently.
A store manager told ET the average Indian waist size is between 40 and 44 inches, but there is a big demand for larger sizes between 48 and 52. “Many of my clients, which include top businessmen whom I cannot name, order suits and have to wait for two months for them to be delivered from Italy, and they pay 20-25% more,” he says. “Most of the classic luxury menswear brands get 50-52 sizes in India,” says Salesh Grover, business head of OSL Luxury, a Delhi-based firm that sells Corneliani.
“When a shopper spends that kind of money to buy a suit, he does not mind paying 20-25% more for made-to-measure to get that perfect fit,” says a Zegna spokesperson in India. Zegna is aggressively promoting its made-to-measure suits. “This service will help us reach out to consumers in markets where we do not have stores,” Gildo Zegna, chief executive of Ermenegildo Zegna, which has a 51:49 joint venture with Reliance Retail in India, had told ET in an interview a month ago.
Corneliani has begun to offer its customers a range of fabrics that are sent to its headquarters in Mantua, where the garment is cut, sewn and delivered in three weeks at a starting price of Rs 1.25 lakh, costlier than ready-to-wear pieces. An MTM usually comes with the personalised service offered by the staff, a selection of fabric, stitching at the headquarters, and also the client’s initials at times.