Pankaj & Nidhi Draw Inspiration from Samurai Armour
Their collection draws inspiration from the 18th century samurai armour which was made with interlaced materials hand-pieced together using a complex weaving technique. The ensembles showcased strong contrasts between black and ivory, charcoal and cloud greys in addition to Kimono colours like sap green, orchid and flame orange. With their chic and dramatic use of colours and geometrics, they have created a collection springing energy and oomph.
Assertive contoured silhouettes look more to the future with geometric flaps, new concentric shoulder details and sophisticated knits. Dresses were consistently above the knee and fitted to accentuate feminine curves. Sharp tailored jackets and circular tops with quirky patterns in faux leather applique and interlacing patterns were the highlights of their collection.
Payal Jain Inspired by Mystic Allure of Solitary Monk
Payal Jain’s collection at WIFW NW 2010 was inspired by the mystic allure of the historical textiles and the bewitching lifestyle of the monks in Laos.
The peace and serenity that emanates from the monks holds the vast range of silhouettes together, be it draped dresses, flowing tunics, structured jackets, bias skirts, prayer pants, draped shells or form-fitted stirrups. The key feature of her collection was reverse construction of garments with obviously visible seams, overlocking and bandings to enhance the simplicity of the ensembles. The treatments and specially designed prints were vibrant, multidimensional, warm and inspired by old Laos textiles handed down over generations.
Fabrics ranging from linen and cotton jersey to hand woven khadi to self jacquards and soft flowing silk jerseys are draped and styled into clean, crisp and simple ensembles. The focus of her collection remains the denim washes and the worn-out effects created to give a rustic, raw and antique illusion. The unorthodox usage of colour, print, texture and fabrics was the most inspiring feature of her collection. The purity and simplicity of form, yarn, detail and surface texturisation is what makes these silhouettes unique.
Rehane’s Exotic expressions
Rehane, in her collection titled Antolio’, drew her inspiration from all things in ‘ Asia Minor ‘. Her WIFW NW 2010 line presented a vibrant and exotic collection in a bold lookher signature style.
The colour story for this collection was strongly salmon, deep aqua, turkish blue and antique gold. Rehane emphasised a lot on the cuts which were structured yet complimenting the female silhouette. A dominant influence of Turkey was seen in the collection. In keeping with the contemporary and bold look, a lot of black with red floral embroidery was also dominant in the designer’s collection. Semi circular pockets with detailing, embroidered back yokes and baby doll styled dresses flounced at the waist were a delight for the onlookers. The fabrics used varied from jacquard to satin and velvet to georgettes. A feminine, chic, playful and elegant collection!
Charu Parashar’s ‘Hidden Warrior in a Woman’
Charu Parashar showcased her collection named ‘Shooma Macq Bool Hasteen’ at the WIFW NW 2010. The show started with dim lights and four models tied from top to toe like mummies with bandages standing still on the golden ramp with only their black eyes peeping out as a sign of life.
Adhering to her signature style, prints were seen once again blended with knits. There were strong influences of bright Egyptian and Persian geometrics in these prints imparting a multi-dimensional feel. The colour palette was a range of wintry dominant black with touches of turquoise, ivory, yellow, sea green and fuschia. The fabrics had fluid drapes giving a luxurious feel by the use of silks, chiffons, satins and cotton. Fabrics were painstakingly constructed with fine quilting techniques, crinkled effects, tassels, gathers and anchor threads.
Silhouettes emphasised on drapes and construction. There was a psychedelic array of geometric prints on Iycra leggings, highlighting the ensembles. The styles were dominated by dresses in various lengths, kaftans, hooded jumpsuits and jackets, bringing out the warrior element by the use of padded and extended shoulder. The models were carrying bronze and silver oxidized metal head gears and chest armours.