Puja Arya’s Flashback
Her collection was true to the whims of a girl from the urban jungle, chic yet playful, nostalgic, focusing on silhouettes from the 50s & 60s with bested jackets, sequined bolero, the ever favorite mini skirt and belted dresses. In Arya’s signature style, the emphasis was on the waist, puff short dresses and saris.
The ensuing ensembles were in handcrafted silk, satins, silk chiffon, silk crepe, silk chanderi and mulmul. She gave keen attention to the detailing and surface treatment with the use of pleating, Indian gota patch work and sequined flower motifs. The artistic masterful hand block prints moved from graphic geometrics to geometric flower motifs. The colour palette ranged from the stark cityscape black and white, checks, to mulled sunny yellows, effervescent greys, breezy lilacs complimented by scrumptious aubergine culminating in a lipstick pink.
Ashii by Ashima Singh
Ashima Singh’s collection at WIFW A/W 2010 drew inspiration from Madhubani and Mithla paintings of Bihar. Ashima is known for uniting various techniques from India’s rich heritage and incorporating traditional trends into modern fashion. For mounting this collection, she had worked with the artisans, built on their traditional skills and created contemporary hues and designs. Itwas a nice amalgamation of Western ensembles with the traditional art form of Madhubani.
The colour palette dealt with an ivory base hand painted with colours like green, orange, pale yellow, brown and blue. She used fabrics like raw silk, matkas and cotton. The silhouettes were very Western with detailing of ethnic, traditional Indian art form which made it very progressive. Design elements included puffed sleeves, sharp cuts, Western jackets and drapes. Even the footwear had a touch of Madhubani motifs with detailed black outlines. Handcrafted tassels had their own charm which were placed on various areas like shoulder, empire line and waistline.
Monapali’s Resort Elegance
Mona Pali showcased their WIFW NW 2010 collection where resort wear meets tribal, paying ode to the exquisite craft of filigree, the fine jaali work in the collection. Tradition was intertwined with modern sensi bility, old fashioned charm mixed with contemporary eclecticism, a rich sensuality mingled with polished and urban serenity. There was a huge variety of surface treatments. Embroidery was delicate, using mesh, bead, thread, dori with hand paint, discharge print and bold graphical patterns to bend in an easy silhouette in soft sensual fabrics that formed the backbone of the collection. There was a rawness and earthiness in it, juxtaposed with sophistication and elegance.
Fabrics were soft and elegant with rustic, matt, structured materials like chiffon blends, satin and net played around with brocade, madras silk and rich Banarasi kheem khab. The colour palette was vibrant with blue, purple, red, yellow, fuschia, green, wine and orange. Applique, dori and thread work added to the dramatic flair. The silhouettes were a mix of modern and classical cuts with fusion as the mainstay. Dresses, kaftans, tunics, skirts, tops, bustiers and saris find their way into the collection. It was soft, sensual and elegant.